Tuesday, March 28, 2006
Itinerary Email to Seth!
yo!!!! yeah i am so psyched for thursday... thanks for all the links.. we will check them out!!! all the stuff we have done was only the north of the south island an we only had a glimpse of the wild west... so we had to go back!!! we set up an itinerary for the entire month.. and it wasn't enough!!! so here is a breif overview of what we got lined up... i figured you would like to hear!!!
we are going to drive down the west coast... stop in greymouth to the speights brewery... their black beer laura and i really like... laura likes a black beer.. awesome!!!.. then we are going to drunkily stare at glowormsin hokatika and then spend a one day hiking near okarito.. which is the area where the nz book "the bone people" was based.. laura read it and really wants to go!... and then we are going to do at least the lake matthewsen hike at fox glacier then to wanaka... then we are diving to Mount Aspiring National Park... i have heard from a few folks that we have met that this park is sick... so we are going to do a three day back pack close to the cascade saddle (this german guy said he has been waiting his whole life to try the cascade saddle and the weather couldn't hold)on the westside of the matukituki river... then to queenstown to get tranport to the Routeburn Track... which is another "NZ Great Walk" three day tramp that straddles both Mt Aspiring and Fiordland... i did some research about top hikes in the world and there were a few lists that had this as one of the top ahead of the milford... Look up some pics online... it seems sweeeeeeet.... then we get back to queenstown.. unfortunetly its not a loop and is in a really remote area near this road named paradise... then we hop over to te anu and then transport to the four day milford and when we get to milford sound (third day is my birthday) we are going to do a day of kayaking in the sound.... then back to te anu and then we are going to do three days of day hikes just in fiordland... lake marian.. lake manupouri.. lake hauroko and the lookout bluff track..just to name a few then we are going to do he scenic south coast drive stopping in a town called bluff to look at stewart island.. eat mussels... we will probably be really tired of eating dried food at this point... and then over too.. curio bay to see thousands year old petrified forest(tidal) nugget point.. blowholes.. dunedin..then otago peninsula penguins... christchurch.. camp in banks peninsula..(some other germans we met said there favorite campsite was here)...then over to Arthurs Pass for a few hikes. free camping here!!! and then back to picton to a ferry... then Laura is giving a presentation the next day at New Zealand's National Youth Environmental Leaders Conference!!! and then we will sleep!...
laura and i are picturing you whipping out a map!!! we basically..we meaning mostly laura.. read the whole lonely planet and another hiking book..and then crossreferenced conversations we have had with other travelers.. almost eveyone we met and then decided what we wanted to do this first time down... we will go down again... mount cook is way out of the way. we looked at doing another backpacking rip that is the start of the copeland track... which goes west to east ending close to mount cook... hopefully with you... we are going to do the canyon swing with you... only if you do the nevis highwire bungy with us... its the gondola with the glass floor 134m bungy... cool?.. coooool!!! anyways.. thats what we hope to do in a nutshell!!!
as you can tell we are kinda excited!
Wellington Again

Now we are back in Wellington, recuperating and planning our next trip to the South Island which starts Thursday night! We have been staying with Lynette, our new friend from our Landmark Class. She has given us a bed that is not in our van to sleep on, and we have repaid her by cooking lots of yummy food, including 2 cheesecakes!

We participated in the culminating event of our friend Carolina's Landmark community project. As an Italian immigrant to New Zealand, she became aware of a WWII Maori-only battalion that fought to liberate Italy. After finding out that some of these 80-90 year old men could still remember the words to certain Italian songs, she came up with the idea of re-writing "O Solo Mio" with Maori words. Along with Club Gharibaldi, the local Italian club, we sang this song as a tribute to the veterans at Wellington's Italian festival. Sounds strange, but it was a moving experience.
Monday, March 27, 2006
Kaikoura: Swimming with the Dolphins
Kaikoura's ideal dolphin swimming conditions come from its unique continental shelf system. It drops off dramatically 100 meters from shore, bringing "deap sea conditions" (800-1500 meters!) unusually close to human reach. Add 2 ocean currents that pass through, a pristine environment, and no hunting pressures, and you get healthy populations of whales, dolphins, seals, albatross etc. There are 15,000 dusky dolphins (the kind we swam with) living near Kaikoura.

Christian took this beautiful moonlit picture as our boat left shore at 6 AM - without a tripod!
I took most of the pictures on this little adventure - Christian was too seasick even for his camara (now you know that is bad!). However, he was not too sick to participate - in an amazing show of will, he swam the first round of the dolphin swim, got out, threw up, and made it back in by the third round!
Dusky dolphins love to jump and do flips, out of the water, for fun (well there are many explanations for why but that's the one I like), quite often. Imagine 300 of them surrounding the boat, jumping and flipping!
Being surrounded by them in the water was like nothing else. They are fast and huge! If you make a noise like a dolphin or swim in a circle they will get interested in you and do circles with you. And then jet off with a flip of a fin.
Christian and his new buddy at the Kaikoura seal colony.
I'm used to tourists.
Kahurangi National Park- Mount Arthur

Interesting foliage just below the tree line.

Laura descending just below the summit.
Mount Arthur was an incredible hike. It had panoramic views of the surrounding Kahurangi Park. We saw only a few people the entire day and the last two decided to camp just before the incline to the summit. It would have been a perfect spot to watch the sunset over the mountains and I believe that night it was supposed to be a full moon...
Wharariki Beach

This beach is near the Farewell Spit on the northwest corner of the South Island. Everyone seems to want to see the "Spit" ... but this beach was much more exciting. It was vast and had incredible rock erosion formations, seals galore, but a bit too much wind!
That tiny little dot is Laura.

Baby seals having a brief discussion about the current labour party. Three were playing in the cove beyond. They play by flipping and spinning around each other in the water... we spent a lot of time watching them.
Friday, March 10, 2006
Laura's Email Update___March 11, 2006
Christian and I are back in the internet cafe, just in time to update you on our life.
One month later, we have been finally seeing the beautiful things people talk about in this country. We completed 2 4-day backpacking trips - the Queen Charlotte track and the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. Since it is the end of summer, beginning of fall here, we thought we might as well do some beach tracks and save the alpine stuff for later.
I think I now see why people rave about here... the Abel Tasman in particular was stunning. Lush and green along bright clean blue almost carribean looking beaches. There were tidal crossings in which you have to time your walk to correspond with low tide. When the tide is out, the sand is vast and looks like a wet desert.
Both Christian and I felt like we could stay out on the track for a long time. In fact, the last day we did not want to leave the beautiful beach we were camped on so despite the lack of much food left we spent the morning there reading and getting a sunburn and hiked out in the afternoon.
We met some interesting people along the track too. One night we sat around a picnic table until after dark talking with a ex-navy Kiwi who has worked for 5 years in London, and a 19 year old Dutch couple who had been dating since they were 14. The Kiwi guy explained all about yachting to us - much more than a rich man's sport apparently.
On the third day of the Queen Charlotte track - the best day in terms of views etc., I came up with a name for our van! Greenstone is the less precious and more abundant form of Jade, and is special to the Maoris, who call it "Pounamou". They make tiki necklaces out of it, among other things. Sticking with the colors theme, green in the new van's case, we are calling our van "The Pounamou Palace".
Most of this will probably be in the many pictures Christian is posting. Check them out at
http://www.bigbluebugblog.blogspot.com.
Hope you are not overwhelmed by information and that you are all well.
Love
Laura
More Abel Tasman!
Abel Tasman National Park!

After backpacking for all day... this was a pretty nice place to let my feet rest.
The sand was pretty cool. Some sort of granite oxidation made the beaches orangey... a bit larger than sand that we are used too but still very comfortable to relax on.
This is from our final tidal crossing. When the tide is out people like to write there names or whatever they want with large stones.
Laura taking it in on our final day.
Rope swings are always a good reason to stop and take a break!
Sunday, March 05, 2006
A couple of funny shots from Wellington!
Pictures and Stuff!
breakfast.. yum!
Laura wants me to stop putting pictures of her on the blog... but i just can't help it! that and i'm sure people don't mind!!!
This is Michele (right) and Mateo (Left) from Italy and Gabie (middle) from Isreal. Gabi is a longtime friend of Laura's cousin Alon. They are apple pickers outside of Nelson and were recently on the cover of the local paper!!! We spent a wonderful weekend with them learning from them and hearing fantastic stories about their travels. They really were great hosts and will definitley be seeing them again! Thanks for the hospitality!!!... oh yeah.. the picture is from a walk we went on with them to the source of a river.. Gabie is filling up our water bottle with some delicious water!... so cold!
this was a view near our campsite on our last night on the queen charlotte.
great view!!! dorky camera bag!!!

baby fern..

sign reads "Pack in. Pack out."... translation... "feed scraps to the hungry pig!"

Waiting for the 3am ferry to the South Island.
Saturday, February 25, 2006
Christian's Update


Well, Laura has been writing the updates, but today i decided that I would do one. So, we are finally off to do some hiking. Last night we took a 3am ferry from Wellington (North island) to Picton (South island). Last night we saw a Burlesque show and some live music (one singer dressed like axel rose!), all events part of the Wellington Fringe Festival. There is a great multifaceted arts scene there. Tomorrow we head off to hike the Queen Charlette Track for the next four days! We have to take another ferry to the track which is mostly costal. The weather here is quite hot and we haven't had the arctic winds that we seemed to get a fair amount of in Wellington.
Last week was my first WWOOF (willing worker on organic farms) experience , and I can only hope that any subsequent WWOOF experience could be as great as this one. We stayed with the Clarke family farm called SMORGanics, and participted in a variety of tasks throughout the week.. We watered and harveseted fresh veggies from there garden, took care of the chickens, chasing all the animals, cows, chickens, and geese, back into the proper paddocks (a daily adventure!), wood chopping, weeding a shelter belt (permaculture feature), drafting their proposed conservatory (sun room)!!, painting a sign (i really enjoyed this!), cooking, drinking lots of tea, and many other things. We really liked eating fresh veggies right out of their garden and fresh eggs!! One highlight of the week was blueberry picking. We have both picked blueberries before, but nothing came close to the farm we went to. You could just close your eyes and stick out your hand and you would have a handful of perfect blueberries. It was really a ridiculous amount of blueberries on this farm.. and they tasted sooooooo good. Laura and I learned alot here and on our last night, she spent the evening taking notes about all she had learned. Thanks to the Clarke Family! We will see you in a few weeks!
So as i said earlier we will be traveling for the next three weeks! So we will be in touch with you all when we can!



Here are some of our surroundings at Smorganics.
We are off to explore the northern shores of the South Island. Tramping on the Queen Charlotte, the Abel Tasman and whaterer we come across in the next three weeks!
Thanks Rae, Mike, Georgia, Olivia, Sophia, Tui, and Tigerlilly for being such wonderful hosts! We really enjoyed our stay and will see you in a few weeks!
Friday, February 17, 2006
Laura's Email Update #2
Hope all is well back home. Thank you so much for your emails - it was beyond great to hear from you. I've discovered internet time is a bit expensive, but I will try to reply as time goes on. I love hearing about home, and I still get homesick.
So....here's the big news. The Big Blue Bug is no more!!! As of two days ago, we have abandonded him for a younger, green and white version of himself. Unfortunately, Big Blue loved our Camp Elsdon campground outside of Wellington so much, he did not want to leave, literally! We got him there, and there he wanted to stay. We thought our car troubles were over once we got here, but one after another after another thing kept breaking. The kicker is, it is so rusted, it won't pass the NZ version of inspection, due in March. So we have cut our losses and bought a different van off a nice british girl. This one I hope hope hope does not break. We were much smarter and more careful this time, and a couple of mechanics have told us it is a great car.
There actually feels like there is not much to update since we last spoke, because our trip feels like it has not fully started yet - 2 and a half weeks of car buying and car fixing, and a few days of Wellington site seeing. We are posting pictures of Kevin our mechanic who gave us a keychain, some candy, and a hug on our way out, our new van ("white and green striped bug?" - I am accepting name suggestions), and the sites from beautiful Camp Elsdon - campervan park aka home in Porirua suburb.
We are off to try our hand at wwoofing for a week. I hope all is well!
Love,
Laura & Christian

This is Kevin. He was our trusty mechanic that we conversed with daily about our vehicle problems. Without him.. we would probably still be at Elsdon. He was a huge fan of the Crusaders, a rugby team from the south Island, whereas all the other mechanics in the area were fans of the "Hurricanes" (north island). Kinda like being a Yankee fan in RedSox land... a familiar story. He also had 7 dogs!!!






















