Sunday, June 10, 2007

Philippines and Family


Welcome to the Philippines!


Jiggy, Christian's cousin Candy's son (first cousin once removed to be exact!)

We were welcomed to Manila at the airport by Christian's Aunt Linda and Uncle Eddie. We had a wonderful few days at their house in the Quezon City section of Manila, enjoying lots of food, malls, and especially being with all of Christian's long lost cousins. As is the Filipino tradition with guests, we were treated like absolute royalty and were fed 5 times a day.


More Columbreses! Aunt Chit and Uncle Ernie's Family

The Royal Treatment Continues: PJ and Athena, Christian's cousins, drove four hours each way to pick us up in Manila and drive us to their house in San Jacinto, Pangasinan. Aunt Chit and Uncle Ernie's family lives in the same house where Christian's dad grew up.



Athena and PJ were our official tour guides for our whirlwind 3 days at Pangasinan Province's tourist sites.

Pilot seat

First stop on the tour: Hundred Islands National Park. We relaxed on the beach, and had a nice boat ride around the tropical islands.


Our steed, parked at Marcos Island



Columbreses on "Christian" Island

We instructed our boat captain to land on this unnamed island, and we christened it "Christian Island" since he was the one to spot it.




Baguio

A note about the Philippines: It is hot! 3 months later we are now accustomed to the 95 degree plus temperatures. For example, at 85 degrees I might not even point the fan at me because I am cold. Four days into our trip however, we were sweating all over the place, so going to Baguio, "the summer capital of the Philippines", was an excellent idea. Its mountainside 65 degree temperatures felt positively chilly.

The Ifugao were the traditional culture that inhabited the Cordillera region where Baguio is located. Now they get their pictures taken by the tourists for money.



The four Beetles

Outside Tam-Awan Village, a tourist site, we saw these Beetles. People with enough money collect these cars here, just like in America.

US culture is strong in the Philippines, I am guessing due to our 50 year colonization and a shared language (half the population speaks English). For example, the police's motto is "To Serve and Protect", just like in America.

My favorite influence is the half English, half Filipino language that many people speak. Someone will be speaking in a Filipino language, then throw in "Go for Gold" or some other English expression to emphasize a point, or completely switch back and forth between the two mid sentence.


That's a massive wave you are catching, Christian

We were about to go back to Aunt Chit and Uncle Eddie's house but the cousins decided, hey let's go surfing! We stopped and got lessons at San Juan La Union Surf Resort.


Politics in the Philippines


"I do!" "I do!" "I do!" "I do!" "I do!" "I do!"...

The reason there are so many people getting married here is because it is being paid for by a local politician in San Jacinto, Christian's family's town, 2 weeks before election day. This should give you an idea as to the flavor of politics here.



Mayor Christian I mean Rudy Columbres

Coming back to San Jacinto, we explored the political scene because Christian's family is intricately connected! His Grandpa was Mayor for while, another Columbres was Mayor for awhile, and now his Grandpa's nephew Rudy Columbres presides.



When you are Mayor, you get lots of perks including congratulating your relatives on a banner outside Town Hall!



"Spoiled Ballots"

Elections here are never entirely clean from what we gathered. The most egregious and widespread type of fraud is "vote buying", occuring in every election from local to national. On the local level, each voter collects what is for them a lot of money (equivalent from $2-$15). Whichever candidate pays them the most, they vote for.

We witnessed this political ritual up close as we were lucky enough to be here for elections within our first month of being here. Our host mom was like a kid in a candy shop the weekend before elections, staying out much later than she normally stays up waiting in lines to collect her 100 pesos ($2).

Almost everyone I talked to about it, from our host mom to Christian's cousins to the staff at our volunteer program had the same interesting reaction to vote buying. They know it is illegal and detrimental to their political process, but they have the same laugh about it and shrug it off. "Isn't that funny?" They even laugh about their own participation in vote buying - taking the money. Underneath this laugh, however, I sense a shade of resignation about the overpowering political fraud that goes on.

Except one woman. She said her brother tried to get elected without the vote buying, even campaigned to his local constituents that this was what he was trying to do - get a clean election. Because he did not give out money, he did not get elected.


In San Jacinto Town Hall


Karaoke in the Philippines

Singing to the videoke machine.

You hear about it in many Asian cultures, but here it is decidedly so. Karaoke is King! In Dagupan, a beach town near San Jacinto, we spent our last night with Athena and PJ singing at our first karaoke night.

Now a staple of our social diet, sometimes I think I am addicted to videoke.



Athena the Diva



"Total Eclipse of the Heart", first introduced to us by the Israeli trapeze artists, turns out to be an excellent Karaoke song!



Duck Fetus, anyone?

It is a well known fact in the Philippines that "Balot", a half incubated duck fetus egg, was featured in the US show "Fear Factor", as a "scary" thing to eat. But they pride themselves that they eat it all the time.

When you are out at a bar etc. you usually hear vendors come by offering, "Baloooot!"

PJ slurps it up

Jordan

Our flight to the Philippines from Israel had a layover in Amman. We did the good "Round the World trip" thing and got off the plane to see Jordan!

We planned our 3 day visit so we would spend Christian's *30th* birthday in Petra!!




Us on top of ZuZu the camel.


This is the obligatory "us on a camel" shot in the Middle East! Getting up and down off a camel feels like a roller coaster ride. They are quite tall, and when they go to sit on the ground, they bend their front legs first, so you feel like you are about to fall off over the head of the camel. Then they put their back legs down and you are level with the ground.

Petra was built by the Nabataeans about 2000 years ago. They were well off because they controlled some caravan trading routes that were not the famous silk route but equally international.

Most of the carvings that look like houses or temples in the rocks are actually tombs. The more ornate, larger tombs were for the Kings and rich people. The tomb style was influenced by the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Some of the temples are an exact copy of a Roman Temple.

I (Laura) actually had visited Petra 11 years ago when Jordan first opened the border from Israel. It was interesting to see the changes in Jordan and at Petra since then. I remember a very dusty underdeveloped country with men in traditional dress hanging out on the sidewalks with not much to do. It felt remarkably more developed this time - lots more cars and pavement, people looking busy, dressed more in the Western style.

Petra itself was also a lot busier - a ton of tourists this time! There were a lot more tourist facilities in Wadi Mousa, the town next door that services the park. Adnan, our driver and tour guide, confirmed this saying there were 4 hotels 12 years ago. Now there are over 70! Everything looks a lot more modern - air conditioned taxis, etc. Amazing what 11 years will do! I can't say the hordes of people contributed to my enjoyment this time.


Petra remained undiscovered for a long time because it is hidden, fortress like, behind "al-Siq". Al-Siq is a long valley, or "wadi" in Arabic.

The Nabataeans were pagan idol-worshipers, and apparently their neighbors were too. In the walls of the wadi you could see depressions carved out, where visitors could place their "portable" idols.



At the end of the Wadi you catch your first view of the "Treasury" (not really a treasury).



The Treasury. This carving has been made famous by "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade".

Although the outsides look so impressive, the insides of all the ornate tombs in Petra are little more than rectangular caves.

The rock colors of Petra are just as spectacular as the carvings.


Laura, posing as a good Brown Alumni.

The "Monastery" or "Al-Deir".

This carving looks just like the Treasury, but I thought it was more impressive because it is HUGE.



Overlooking Petra and the Monastery, near sunset.


One thing that hasn't changed in the 11 years since I have been to Petra is the friendliness of the local Bedouins.

The Bedouins were living in the park as recently as 20 years ago, when they were kicked out to a nearby re-settlement town. One of them pointed out to us which ruin he used to live in when he was a kid.

Abed and his cousin were playing beautiful music on the hill at the far edge of Petra, near the Monastery. They camp out in the park illegally many nights and invited us to join them (we declined). We did stay to catch some enchanting Bedouin songs.



Abed had a heart melting voice.



Abed's cousin.



BMW bling on top of a donkey (AKA the new 7 series).



The young face of Bedouin Petra





laura on view over petra - do we need this?






Who's an Ass?

Christian riding CoCo the Donkey.

Israel and Family

We visited Israel for a busy 2 weeks. Our visit was chock full of family, special occasions, and showing Christian his first taste of my second home country.

The Wedding


Natalie and Hillal under their Chupah. All of their friends signed and decorated it.

My cousin Natalie got married to her circus partner Hillal in a spectacular circus filled wedding on March 30, 2007. The ceremony was beautiful.

Although you are restricted to have only an Orthodox Jewish wedding if you will be officially recognized as married by the state of Israel, Natalie and Hillal found an excellent orthodox rabbi who let them add things to make the ceremony more palatable to their gender-modern beliefs. The Rabbi sang with his guitar and led the outdoor ceremony with such a fervor that you felt like this was the first wedding he had led and he actually meant it.

The chupah was encircled on all sides by friends and family to witness the occasion on this beautiful Spring day.


Natalie's dress was nothing short of fairy tale princess. Shown here being twirled by Grandpa.

But wait, there's more!....



...The bottom of Natalie's dress is designed to slip off and become a performance tu-tu!

Natalie and Hillal performed the first of 7 excellent circus acts, the rest performed by their circus friend community.


Just Married and jumped on top of your shoulders!

Uli and Noa doing their amazing lip synch/trapeze to Bonnie Tyler's "Total Eclipse of the Heart".



Grandpa and his two daughters - my mom, Ellen, and Natalie's mom, Susie



All the Belsons showed up! Bob, Joe, and Ellen


Jerusalem

Our family friend and tour guide Shraga Hecht took Christian, Joe and me on an informative (and argumentative) tour of Jerusalem.

I am always impressed with how many ancient religions and cultures have passed through here and still mark Jerusalem as their holy place today.

View of the Old City of Jerusalem and the Dome of the Rock.


Jerusalem sprawls its way over the hills.

The Church of the Rooster. Christ was imprisoned here, and they still have his cell in the basement. This is a statue commemorating the site where Peter betrayed Jesus!


This is Zion Gate, built by the Turks, and pockmarked with Jordan's bullets from the 1948 Israeli War of Independence.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Most Christians believe that this Church is built on the hill where Jesus Christ was crucified, and it is also where he was buried. As you can probably guess, as this is where he "died for our sins", this is a pretty significant place to them.

The church has been the destination of pilgrimages ever since the 4th century, and we indeed saw many church groups passing through. The most colorful were the groups from Africa, who all wore bright matching African style clothing and head wraps.

The interesting part was that different branches of Christianity disagree as to the exact physical location of Christ's burial within the Church itself. There were many people buried there, so different tombs have been selected by different Churches as to "the" place. The Catholics have one tomb, the Eastern Orthodox have another, etc. Each of these tombs has been marked and decorated separately as "Christ's tomb" by each Church.

This rock is where Christ was supposedly laid after he died.

The Church is pretty dark and medieval feeling inside, so Christian took a lot of cool "Da Vinci Code" photos.

Doesn't she look like a Renaissance painting?

The Wailing Wall is a remnant of an outer courtyard wall from the Second Temple, destroyed by the Romans in 70 A.D.

The Second Temple housed the "Holy of Holies", which was an inner sanctuary considered the most sacred place in Judaism. Since the wall is the closest structure of the temple remaining to that inner sacred place, it is considered Holy even today.

Also referred to as the Western Wall, the wall is nicknamed Wailing because Jews still mourn the loss of the rest of the Second Temple.

People come to pray at the wall, as the Orthodox man in the picture is doing. They stuff papers with prayers and wishes into the cracks in the wall. The site is partitioned into girl/boy, according to Judaism's gender traditions.

On the day we visited, Chabad, one of Judaism's internationally orthodox groups, was having a big loud celebration in the center of the Wailing Wall Plaza. We lost Grandpa temporarily, and then we found him, listening to the celebration and saying what a great sound system they had.

Oasis of Peace, officially named Neve Shalom and Wāĥat as-Salām is a cooperative village jointly founded by Israeli Arabs and Jews in an attempt to show that the two peoples can live side by side peacefully, as well as to conduct educational work for peace, equality and understanding between the two peoples (copied from Wikipedia).

My Grandpa has been a big supporter of the village from its beginnings in the early 1970's, and we visit to see how the village is doing every time we visit Israel.

Passover Seder, 2007


Natalie and Hillal invited the family over to their "dome" for the annual family seder.

The dome is a canvas covered geodesic structure. It is a tent like area with a wooden floor where they sometimes practice circus and sometimes use as their living room. Their home is right next door in a trailer at the back of a trailer park.

Mirrel and Jasper setting the table in the dome. They studied in Natalie and Hillal's circus school and came from Amsterdam to be with them on their wedding.

Laura reading the poem she wrote for their wedding to Natalie and Hillal.


Eve and Ira take a nature walk at the back of Natalie's trailer park.




This proves that Dutch people are taller than Jewish people

(back): Bob, Mirrel, and Jasper.
(center): Eve, Ellen, Susie with Manu, Laura, Hillal, Natalie, Grandpa, Ira
(front): Christian, Noah, Alon


The Dome by Night


The Arava, Moshav Edan

Continuing with Israel tour, 2007, my mom, dad and I took Christian to show him where I spent the first four years of my life. On a small Moshav farming community in the middle of the Arava desert.


The Negev desert



The Arava in its brown glory. The black thing is me (Laura)!



These signs point to two major changes that have taken place on the Moshav since we lived there 20 years ago. First, instead of English speaking settlers and volunteers, Thai laborers work the fields, as can be seen by the Thai script at the bottom. And second, the village is going organic! There was even a small organic store that would have been unheard of in the spartan times when we lived there.



Laura returns to her childhood bomb shelter


Hanging out in Nes Ziona

We had some nice down time with Susie and her family in Nes Ziona. Thank you for being such a wonderful hostess, Susie!

My cousin Alon and his son, my newest cousin, Noah!


Hanging out with Noah at the local park



Udi!


No visit to Israel would be complete without catching up with my old buddy Udi. He lived with us in Providence for a bit, so he was eager to show off Israeli cooking. We agreed the falafel was better at East Side Pockets!



Hanging out in Tel Aviv



The Tel Aviv boardwalk



The Israeli Juggling Convention

In honor of Natalie's wedding, we all paid a visit to the 2007 Israeli Juggling Convention. It was held in the Sachne, one of Israel's nicest parks.



Please don't fall, please don't fall, please don't fall!



Matzah Karate and Omer with his fan



I always knew Dad was a top hat kind of guy



GQ David, my step cousin




The best picture of Joe, ever!


Manu, Natalie's dog, trying hard to look dignified next to my brother Joe